Baby Wearing - My 4 infant carriers for under $60!

Maddox's due date is fast approaching... We're down to less than 30 days!

I've been busy the last few days making different baby wearing items to use when he comes along. My goal is always to save money. Truthfully I don't NEED any of this but knowing I can have something "designer" for a fraction of the cost by making it myself makes me feel like I NEED it, and I know they will get used so I don't see any waste in it. Now I just need the cute baby to put in them!

Ok, let's get this baby-wearing party started! 

First, meet my tester babies...

  

BabyBjorn

**UPDATE**
I suppose I knew the Baby Bjorn wasn't a great option. Just never really looked in to it much. Now I'm inadvertently more knowledgable on the subject. If you simply do a Google search on the dangers of Baby Bjorn style carriers you'll get the hint really quickly. Use this with discretion if you choose to do so.

Ok, one thing I can't really make is a BabyBjorn carrier, but it falls in to the baby wearing category so I wanted to share my awesome find. Secretly I have wanted one of these since the early beginnings of my pregnancy. There are several different styles and prices starting around $55 if you wish to buy new.

 

While at a kids consignment store a while back I found one on a rack with their baby carriers. I ignored it because I didn't really think we needed it until DH realized our old Snugli had pink accents. I told him about the black BabyBjorn I had seen so we took off to the store hoping it'd still be there.

Thankfully it was still there and after using $10 left on a gift card we only paid $10 out of pocket for a great-looking BabyBjorn Original!

Moby Wrap

The Moby Wrap is definitely my "thing." Making your own Moby is incredibly easy. The hardest part is dealing with a ton of fabric but it's a minimal sacrifice for the savings!

Price out knit fabric first. I was able to buy mine for $5 a yard on an end of bolt discount table. I bought the whole 7yds that was left. Keep in mind when pricing it out that 5yds of fabric from the bolt will make 2 wraps as long as it's at least 40 inches wide. Unless you are buying some outrageously expensive knit you will probably not exceed the retail price of a Moby and making one will still be totally worth it.

I don't really know what my knit is technically called.. it's a very soft maybe medium weight(?) knit that stretches width-wise. In doing research I'm finding the best support comes in a 2-way stretch in the width rather than a 4-way stretch in both length and width. If it stretches in length the fabric is going to loosen up and give a little more over time and you may find yourself adjusting it.

You don't even need to have sewing skills to make this wrap unless you wish to serge the edges and/or add a fabric panel. Otherwise it can be simply knit.

To make your own you will need:

• 5 yards of cotton knit fabric cut to about 20-23 inches wide. Mine is about 23" wide. My knit was 60in wide so after cutting out my 23" I have plenty left over for another wrap.

• **Optional** Square of fabric (in my case 24"x24") to use as a supporting/decorative panel. 

• A Load of Craft shows you here how she made a panel for her wrap.
• In this one she used two pieces of different fabric in order to make the wrap reversible.

• **Optional** Serger if you want finished edges. I don't have one. I did a test strip to see if I could zig-zag the edges... I do not recommend that. Knit doesn't flow under the presser foot very well on edges so it tended to get bunched up a lot. 
• Scissors and/or rotary mat

 Elle Apparel has a good visual of the cutting process which is the way I cut mine.
(She uses a 4-way knit if you follow her tutorial and I have not seen any post regarding issues with support from her. Reading the comments in her post got me in to researching the differences and that's how I came up with the conclusion to use a knit that stretches in the width.)



I really love my white Moby Wrap but life reminds me white will probably not look so white forever. This wrap has a more elegant look to it so it might be one I use for special occasions or to be a color-neutral option depending on what I'm wearing.



In order to have another wrap available for more casual use I knew I needed a different color knit but I was not about to go buy more. Rit Dye to the rescue! Never used this stuff before but in order to get what I wanted for a minimal price, dying the fabric was my only option.
You can check out how I dyed all this fabric here!

Moby Wraps cost $45+ depending on the style you want.

The white wrap cost about $15 after adding the fabric panel.
The brown wrap cost about $16 after adding the fabric panel and dying the knit.


 
(I did the best fit I could considering I have a large belly in the way. What you are seeing is the newborn wrapping method so the panel is folded in half to create a pouch for baby.)
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Ring Sling

To make your own you will need:

• Between 2 and 2.5 yards of fabric in length and between 25-30in in width. I'm a small framed person so 2 yards x 30in works for me (Fabric FAQ)
• Coordinating thread
• 2 Aluminum sling rings appropriate to the weight of your fabric (I used Large 3in rings from www.slingrings.com). I ordered the 3-ring assorted size samples in neutral colors. It'll come with a set of large, medium, and small rings. I think I was given silver large, black medium, and navy small. 
• Sewing machine

The fabric I purchased is an embroidered fabric so it looks the same on both sides. This works perfectly because the tail of the fabric, once pulled through the rings, will show the back, or wrong side. If it looks the same on both sides it's not really an issue. If it doesn't, you can always choose a coordinating fabric to with the same dimensions to sew on to your fabric, or leave it as-is. Up to you :)

My fabric (what was left on the bolt) was 2yd4in x 60in. I simply cut down the center fold to get my 2yd4in x 30in fabric. Just like with the DIY Moby, once you've cut down the center you essentially have enough left over for another sling. I, however, used a chuck of that leftover fabric to make an elegant panel for my white Moby.

I hemmed my fabric on 3 sides to hide the raw edges. On the short side that will get tucked through the rings I only folded in once. There will be plenty of thick fabric to sew on that end once the rings get put on so one fold is plenty.. the raw edges will not be seen once it is completed.

Adding the rings:

As illustrated in the "fanned/gathered technique" photo from Variations on ring sling shoulders, mark your fabric at 1/2 in, 2in, then 2in again. This will help you to place your rings in the right spot and show what point to fold your fabric to so you can sew it down. 

To make your sling without pleats you have to be patient, pin a lot, and sew through several layers of bunched up fabric. It wasn't so bad but I noticed when I was done the fan was quite wide compared to a pleated fan. I've read that can be uncomfortable over time with the weight of a baby if the fan of the shoulder goes too far down your arm. Makes for less mobility of your arm.

I went back and bunched up the fabric more, sewing along the same line, then moving up and sewing a new line for added security. I even attempted a decorative stitch on top of that 2nd row of stitching. Attempted. It serves its purpose but didn't turn out so great probably because of the amount of uneven fabric it was working through. Good thing it was white thread and not incredibly visible.

If you wish to make pleats here is a step-by-step tutorial for you. 

Once you have your rings sewn securely in place for the shoulder (may want to do a decorative stitch or go back over with a couple more straight stitches) you can try it on and "thread" your rings! 

This Ring Sling cost me about $10.

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If I had went out and purchased a brand new BabyBjorn, 2 Moby Wraps, and a Ring Sling I'd be looking at over $200 worth of products. I'm very happy to have a variety of carriers for under $60!

~Lisa~

Rit Fabric Dye

My new favorite invention... Rit fabric dye! How cool is this stuff??!! Uhm, VERY!

I've only used it once so far and I'm thrilled with it. I can't wait to try it on some more projects, woooo!

Here you'll see where I posted about different baby carriers, one of them being the DIY Moby Wrap. I had purchased 7yds of white knit fabric. Some of it was used for a white Moby and I wanted to make another one but needed a different color fabric. I chose to dye the fabric with Dark Brown Rit.

(These are photos of my Moby Wraps, one with the regular white knit and the other with the dyed fabric)

You will need:

- Fabric (preferably a white color. If you are wanting to dye a different color you need to check out a color wheel to determine what color dye to purchase to get the desired outcome. Experimenting with swatches may be necessary)

- Rit Dye of your choice (they sell it in liquid or powder form at craft stores, and places like Walmart or Target in the laundry detergent section)

- Gloves

- A spoon or long stirring item you don't care about

- If you choose to do the stove-top method, a large pot that you will never cook food in. I'm using the sink method so a pot is not really needed (except I did boil some water).

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I'm working with a ton of fabric in this project: 5yds long by about 30in wide.

• First, especially if you are working with new fabric, wash it. I'd recommend not using any fabric softener, just regular detergent. You want to wash out the starchiness. If you add fabric softener to your washer or dryer load it will cause repelling (maybe more so over time, but just don't add it at all yet since you really want your fabric to grab the dye).

• While your fabric is washing get your dying method ready. I used the sink method since our sink is deep, black and won't stain. I brought water to a very early boil (I just wanted water that was slightly hotter than I could get out of the faucet) in a 6qt pot and poured it over in to the plugged sink. To fill the sink up a little more I turned the faucet on hot.

** Now is a good time to glove up and put on some crummy pants along with one of your husband's undershirts because your belly is so big at 36 weeks the only shirts of your own that still fit are too nice ;) **

• The sink method says to use 1 cup of salt and 1/2 bottle of Rit dye. I added the salt first, stirred it to dissolve then added my 1/2 bottle of dye. Stir it around for a minute so the dye mixes in with the water

 

• Rit recommends you add your wet fabric to the dye slowly and without folds. Oh boy. Luckily I used the washer so I don't have to wet the fabric. I just had to pull it all out and untwist it. I laid my heavy 5 yards of wet fabric on the counter and starting with one end slowly dipped the fabric in to the water making sure it went in with no folds or creases that would prevent dye from touching it evenly.

• Once it was all in I started the tedious task of stirring around fabric for nearly 30 minutes. Being 36 weeks pregnant I pulled up a stool and set there mixing and moving and re-situating the fabric with my gloved hand. I made sure to pull out pieces every now and then to make sure it was getting dye everywhere in hopes to prevent any blotchiness in the finished product.

 

• After the 30 minutes (it says 30-60min.... 30 sounded just fine to me!) I drained the sink and pressed what excess water I could from the fabric. Rit says to rinse the fabric until the water runs clear. That would take literally centuries in the sink so I tossed my fabric in to a bucket and took it to the washing machine. 

• I did 2 Delicate loads on warm both with extra rinse cycles, NO detergent. Then I did another load WITH detergent and the extra rinse cycle. This process kind of reminded me of coloring your own hair. They always tell you to rinse until the water runs clear but no matter what the next time you wash your hair the water is never clear. The first two wash cycles did a well enough job in my book even though during the 3rd cycle with detergent I still saw slight discoloration in the water.

You will need to wash your fabric separately or with like colors the next few times you decide it needs to be washed in case there is more bleeding.

Once I was done with the rinsing and washing I tossed the fabric in to the dryer. What a beautiful brown I got! I think it could have come out darker if I had either added the whole bottle of Rit or sat there for another 30min stirring it around, but I'm actually very very happy with the color!

~Lisa~

DIY Cloth Diaper Inserts - Part II (Microfiber!)

DIY Cloth Diaper Inserts - Part I

UPDATE: See Cloth Diaper Follow-Up for a recent review!

In the above link you'll find my very first post about cloth diaper inserts. In general it revolved around gDiapers however they can be used for any diapers as long you make them to fit. This tutorial is specifically for microfiber inserts. It's very simple so don't worry :)

What you will need:

~Dimensions of the inserts for your diaper

In my case, I have mostly Alva brand. Check with your favorite brands for insert dimensions before you get started.  

Alva (regular) - 12.99" x 5.32"
Alva (newborn) - 12.60" x 4.33"

~Microfiber towels 
The ones I used for the newborn inserts are 14x14 (pictured in white or blue)
For the regular size inserts I used towels measuring 14x17 (pictured in yellow)

~Sewing machine or serger

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There truly is no cutting involved in my case here unless you're looking for exact dimensions and rounded corners. All you need to do is tri-fold your microfiber towels evenly, pin (which I really didn't do) and zig-zag stitch all the way around. 

You can see my yellow towels were already creased for me. I folded in thirds along the longest part that way the inserts are 14 inches long and about 5.5 inches wide.

The newborn inserts end up being 14 inches long and about 4.5 inches wide.

Here is an Alva newborn microfiber insert next to my "newborn" microfiber insert. Slightly longer but that's ok. They are the same thickness and it should work just as well.

FYI: 

If you have colorful microfiber towels like I do, be mindful that they may shine their colors through your white or lighter colored diapers. I still need to make many many more regular size inserts but it will be a while til our son fits those so I'm not yet worried about hunting down white towels. 

To prep: Wash once in hot water with detergent (I'm using All Free & Clear as my CD safe detergent for now). Dry on low heat. NO FABRIC SOFTENERS! 

So there you have it! You now have easy microfiber inserts for your pocket diapers. 

Microfiber is not recommended for use against baby's skin. It's not a very pleasant feeling material and many people say it causes rashes and other issues with their babies. If you have diapers where the inserts are not put in a pocket but instead lay against baby's skin, refer to my Part I post about adding fleece or flannel as outer layers.

~Lisa~

From Girlish to Boyish - Travel Crib Repurpose!

Did you know?!?!
Bassinets aren't cheap! You're looking at anywhere between $70-$150+ for something your baby will sleep in for all of a few months in many cases. I was definitely not looking to spend that for our 2nd baby when I already had a perfectly good bedside sleeper/travel crib leftover from my daughter. However, it was just that... leftover from my daughter complete with the cute pink accents!
Nonetheless!! I was determined to make this work for our son!

Initially I thought I'd make one big ruffled/pleated "skirt" to go all the way around the outside from top to floor. But that's a lot of fabric, and it's still not going to cover the inside edges or the bumper pads on the bassinet.
Scratch that idea.

Then I thought, what about making strips of fabric to fit each side just enough to cover the pink in length and width... but how on earth am I going to attach it to the crib? Brainstorming and internet searches were coming up empty but I was so gonna figure this out even if I had to go buy a large sewing needle and hand-stitch with thick thread!
I knew I'd be able to sew fabric on to the bumper pad so I wasn't too concerned about that part.

So here it goes...

There is truly no strategy here, I figured it out as I went so I'll show you some pictures of what I did, explain a little bit, then show you the final product. I don't expect you to drop your jaw in sheer awe because this just isn't one of those projects.

The best part about this is I haven't ruined the original product to where it can't be sold/donated later in its original condition once we are done with it. It's simply a cosmetic fix to get us through.
(hooray for seam rippers!)

Grab ya some scrap fabric (or go buy some, whichever!). I chose green and yellow from my stash.

I took a few measurements including the length and complete width, measuring from the bottom edge on the outside around to the bottom edge of the inside of the pink fabric in my case. This way once you attach the fabric it will fold over the side and cover all of the pink both inside and out of the crib.
Cut your fabric along with a seam allowance, fold in (iron if needed) and sew up the edges all the way around. You will need 2 of these pieces, 1 for each long side.

The short edges might be a little more difficult since it's rounded on top, so I laid the crib on the ground on top of the fabric and traced it. Measure how tall you need the piece to be plus a little bit of seam allowance, then cut 4 pieces to match (2 for each side).

Fold in and sew the bottom and side edges of all 4 pieces.

Sew two of the pieces, right sides together, around the top rounded part only! Don't sew the bottom or sides! Once you've done that, flip it right side out. It should now slide easily over the short rounded side of your travel crib.

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On to the bassinet bumper...

Measure the inside length all the way around your bassinet bumper. Measure the height and cut your fabric to match that including a seam allowance. Fold in and sew your seam all the way around. My fabric wasn't long enough so I did have to attach a few pieces to get the appropriate length.

 This is probably the hardest part: Sewing your bumper fabric on. Make sure you have a good strong needle (like one used for denim) and a little patience to go slow. Shoving the end of your fabric in to a corner of the bumper, sew it from top to bottom to hold it securely in place.

Now you can start sewing the fabric on to the bumper. I started on top since that edge is easiest to reach with the machine and sewed down the length of one side as close as possible to the edge of the yellow fabric while keeping it as close as possible to the binding of the bumper. In the below photo you can see the stitching that was already on the yellow fabric and how my needle is positioned slightly to the right of it.

 On the top of your long sides you are going to encounter the plastic clamps that hold the bumper to the crib. Because those boogers are sewn down in to the bumper pad you'll need to sew around this a little differently. I decided to skip over that part then go back to it after I'd sewn the rest of the top on either side of the clamps.

Alright, got all of the top sewn now except for the section around the clamp as shown above.

It was actually easier to sew this part with the clamp on the left of the presser foot which meant doing a lot of shoving of bumper fabric in the tiny spot between the presser foot and the machine lol, that was interesting, but otherwise the little screw to the right of the presser foot would not have allowed me to lift the plastic clamp up well enough sew. Trust me, I tried to work around that.

Once you've finished sewing the top of one side, go back and sew across the bottom. That will give you one side completely sewn. At the corner where you meet your new side, sew down the edge as close to the corner seam of the bumper as possible (just like you did at the very beginning). 

In the below picture you can see how it's nice and secure and ready for you to move on to the next side and sew.

 

I made sure to be "safe" and not sew over top of the warning label. The yellow fabric is pretty see-through so it wouldn't look very good to cover it up. I just cut the fabric and sewed the edge along the label, then picked up with reattaching the rest of the yellow on the other side of the label.

 Finish sewing all the way around your bumper, top and bottom. Since I had cut a large chunk of yellow out for the label I ended up with a bunch of leftovers at the end. All I had to do was cut it off, fold the edge under, tuck it in the corner and do the last bit of stitching.

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The final step.... we get to attach those (green, in my case) edge pieces to the crib. I don't really have any pictures of that because there isn't much to show aside from how it looks once all the pieces are on. I decided to use safety pins. It took a little patience and finagling to get them on there and secure.

I'm not concerned about the baby getting to the pins because once the bumper is on they are covered up from the inside, and the crib will be put away long before he will ever walk or be able to mess with it.

Since the crib is wedged between my bed and the wall I opted not to mess with the cute pink skirt on the bottom aside from pinning it back on the one side that is visible. 

For now I covered the mattress pad with the blanket that came with our crib bedding set. I will either buy or make a matching sheet to cover the pad eventually.

***I would not recommend doing this with a full-size Pack n' Play unless you plan to sew on ALL of the fabric you add like I mentioned in the beginning. In general you've got the older babies in these and the safety pins can be a hazard!! This mini travel crib can be used like a Pack n' Play by removing the bassinet... if an older baby that can stand and reach the added fabric is put in it, you need to remove the fabric and safety pins.***

Overall this was a pretty simple project and with using leftover fabric from my stash it really didn't cost me a penny! I'm very happy with not having to go spend $100 on a new bassinet. I hope this will encourage and inspire you to save a little bit of money and consider repurposing!!

Infant Tulle Tutu!

A few weeks ago I did a post about several craft/sewing projects I need to get done before our little guy arrives. The first one was an outfit needed for a onesie exchange in a September due date mommy group. I have been procrastinating BIG time with this, and I need to have it mailed off by August 6th! I finally decided on what I would do and purchased a cute little onesie from Old Navy to get the project started. 

I'm proud to say I'm finally done with it! I can cross it off my list!!

To follow the little bit of info I received about Mom, I needed something for a girl, with green, purples and/or browns, maybe owls or butterflies, along with a little sparkle. With the help of a lot of tulle leftover from projects I decided to not use tulle on, I got to work on making a tutu to go with the onesie!

If you would like to make your own tulle tutu for a little girl here is what you'll need:

Scissors

Elastic (I think I used 1/2 or 3/4inch since it's for a baby)

Tulle in the colors of your choice

Safety pin

Needle/thread or sewing machine

I had a couple yards each of green and purple tulle and might have used about 1/2 yard of each for this project. That will of course depend on the length you want and size of the person you're making it for.

I cut several pieces of each color approximately 7x13 inches. Some pieces were bigger, some were smaller. You can adjust all of it in the end.

My onesie is a 3-6 months size. I only had a small bit of elastic left, but it was enough to go around the onesie plus extra. I used a safety pin to hold the elastic together where I wanted it. That's another thing you can adjust as needed.

Starting on one side of the safety pin I began tying on the tulle alternating colors as I went around.

Fold it in half...

 

Place the folded part behind your elastic...

 

Then take the two ends, bring them down in front of the elastic and through the loop. Pull tightly and adjust as needed.

I used 16 pieces of each color. Really you won't know how many you'll use until you are finished. I had to cut extras as I went. It takes a little working with because the elastic likes to get twisted easily. I have seen where people stretch the elastic around a chair back to hold it in place and make it a little easier to work with. I don't have any 3-6mos size chairs handy so I worked it out as I went.

Once all of the tulle was on the elastic I had some adjustments to make... some of my tulle pieces were longer than others (it can be a pain to cut and get perfect) so I had to go around the bottom and trim it up a bit to make it somewhat even in length.It's going to poof out so there's no need for it to be perfect.

Use your needle and thread or sewing machine to do several stitches up and down the elastic where the two ends meet so it's secure! 

(You may have to loosen one of the tulle pieces next to where you sew that way you can move it over and cover up the elastic. Now that it is completely finished you can adjust the tulle around the elastic so it looks evenly spread out.)

I purchased a couple of little wooden craft accessories as extras to mail out with the onesie and tutu! Maybe she can use them for decor :)

And there you have it, an adorable tulle skirt that should cost you no more than $5-$10+ depending on the amount of tulle you need and what you already have on hand! I purchased my tulle for about $1/yd and the elastic was a hand-me-down from a basket of sewing goodies I was given, so for me it was maybe a $1 project.

Personalized & Reusable Goodie Bags!

For my daughter's 4th birthday I decided to go a little outside the "normal" box of party stuff and rather than buy plastic bags and stuff them with goodies I opted to make my own bags. I went with the idea of giving each kid a reusable "snack bag" that is personalized with their initials!

Here is the original tutorial I found on Pinterest:

Going "green" tutorial - reusable snack bags

The girls got either pink or purple, and the boys got either green or brown. The embroidery, if you choose to do something similar, needs to be done once you attach your outside and inside fabric squares (pretty much after the first step that involves sewing). 

 I am not a master embroiderer... it's still fairly new to me even though I've had my machine a couple years (Brother SE400). I just don't embroider often. If you follow your machine instructions it recommends you to use embroidery thread but that stuff can be very pricy. I use regular machine-grade thread for mine.

Once you get your pieces embroidered you can move on and follow the steps in the tutorial accordingly to get your finished product.

Goodie bags labeled and ready to hand out at the party!

 

 They were are a HUGE hit! The kids loved them according to feedback from parents! I will definitely consider doing something similar again next year.

Oh, and for the cost?? About $3! 

All I had to purchase was some off-brand sew on Velcro from Walmart. Everything else was fabric I had on hand which coincidentally was all given to me by either my grandmother or my sister.

~Lisa~

Using Elastic Thread in Your Sewing Machine

Not too many sewing projects (at least that I have come across) call for elastic thread, but when one does and you've never heard of such a thing or personally used it, it can throw you off a bit. I remember when I first went searching for it in-store I was having a heck of a time. It wasn't with all the thread?! Der, it was with the elastic, and it is definitely not as thin as regular thread! 

Since there is a first time for everything and for everybody, here's a simple tutorial with photos to help you get started on using elastic thread in your sewing machine.

As a heads up, in this case, I am NOT changing the tension or thread length settings on my machine. You'll do that for rouching projects. Keep your settings at 'normal'!!

 ~~~

Elastic thread can be purchased at most any craft/sewing supply stores pretty cheap and in several different colors (Example). Here is a picture of my elastic thread... it didn't come on a spool like my example link does, it was in plastic packaging hanging on the wall.

Thread your upper thread with regular thread (thread...thread...thread...!!) of your choice for the project.

Take an empty bobbin and begin wrapping your elastic thread around it. Don't pull too tightly, just slightly! You don't want it wrapped really loose but you don't want too much tension, either. When I start wrapping mine I hang on to about 1.5 inches so that it won't slip around the bobbin as I get the first several rounds going. You can see my excess in this photo laying over my pinky.

Take your time winding it. I have accidentally dropped the bobbin, then it rolls away, and I have to start over! Argh!

Once you fill the bobbin about half-way, maybe a little more, go ahead and snip the loose end back to where it isn't hanging out, and of course detach the other end from the elastic thread roll.

Follow the instructions for placing the bobbin in your machine.

I'm not sure if you really need to cut the end of the elastic thread like you do your regular thread, but I do anyway. Hold your finger over the bobbin (not on the camera like me) to keep it from moving then quickly yank the elastic in to the cutter. Pulling slowly like you do your regular thread doesn't work so well.

The very first time I ever used elastic thread I opted for some experimenting on scrap fabric (preferably scrap fabric just like whatever your project fabric is) to make sure I had it down. I suggest you try this too.

In this project I'm using a knit material. It's already stretchy but for a waistband I want to make sure the thread doesn't break. Using the elastic thread helps it have more give and leave the knit material with its stretchy quality.

I've flipped the fabric over here to show you what it looks like coming out from under the foot.

 

When you are finished sewing and hit the 'cut thread' button (or however you do it on your machine) most likely the elastic will not cut. It's hit and miss in my case so be careful when pulling the fabric from the machine... you might accidentally yank several inches off your bobbin which could be frustrating especially if you aren't done using it. Pull the fabric away gently and if it is still attached, cut the thread with your scissors. You should be GTG now!

I'll be honest, this particular project was a flop but it had nothing to do with using the elastic. It was an experimental deal that I plan to try again and hope will be a success. My point here is just simply about the elastic thread and its use in your sewing machine :)

 

Happy elastic thread usage!

~Lisa~